Arboretum uses the following natural ingredients:

Phospholipids

What is a Liposome?

Under certain conditions soy phospholipids form spheroidal cellular structures of very small size called liposomes.

Liposomes are formed under a certain conditions of hydration and speed of mixture from highly refined phospholipids. When these liposomes are formed in a solution of water soluble active ingredients, this solution ends up inside the hollow spheroids enclosed by the phospholipid membranes. These liposomes were shown to pass through the epidermis and into the basal and dermal layers of the skin, where they may become part of the cell membrane being of the very similar composition.Liposomes shed the soluble active ingredient to be used by the skin structure. Thus liposomes act as carrier mechanism for deliveries of active ingredients directly to the cell.

Thus liposomes are kinds of vehicles which transport biologically active elements into deep layers of the skin. As an example, natural anti-oxidants (vitamins C, A and E) can be enclosed into liposomes and carried into the skin to counteract skin aging through preventing free radical formation. So , liposomes act as truly anti-aging cosmetic ingredient.

Their structure is very similar to that of a cell membrane. A liposome represents an empty ball with fat containing a double shell and an aqueous phase in the center that can contain active substances. The liposomes , formed within herbal infusions and water-soluble vitamins, contain an aqueous phase saturated by biologically active elements. It is known that the liposomes pass through the epidermis to the basal skin layer. Phosholipids are easily absorbed there (by the way of building the liposome membrane into the cellular one) and release soluble biologically active ingredients. The oil-soluble ingredients (such as antioxidant vitamins E and A) are built into the lipophilic double layer of liposomes and are also transported into the deep layer of the skin. The phospholipids are highly hygroscopic and able to keep water where it is particularly needed, so liposomes act as hydrating compounds. They are made from phospholipids which are very rich in essential fatty acids (linoleic, linolenic , arachidonic acids) which are hygroscopic and hold water in place inside the skin where an increased level of hydration needed. Shortage of essential fatty acids increase acne formation and the water loss from the skin is inversely proportional to the linoleic acid content.

Liposomes act as repair complex for the epidermis. Skin roughness is one of the major problems the cosmetic industry deals with which is a result of the damage of the epidermis. This includes damage due to enviromental factors (sun, pollution), use of aggressive soaps, etc. Many researches have shown that topically applied liposomes increase the hydration of the epidermal layer and actually replace or damage phospholipids of the keratinized cells throughout the epidermis. Just a few applications of a liposome containing cream will result in a smoother skin!

References:

1. Frost, Phillip, MD, Horwitz, Steven, MD: Principles of cosmetics for the dermatologist. The C.V. Mosby Company, 1982
2. Roeding, J and Ghyczy,M : Control of Skin Humidity with Liposomes: Stabilization of skin care oils and lipophillic active substancies with liposomes. SOFW 10, 378 (1991)
3. Artman, C, Roeding J, Ghyczy, M and H.G.Pratzel: Influence of various liposome preparations on skin humidity; Parfuemerie & Kosmetik 5, 326 (1990)
4. Lautenschlager,H M.D., Roeding,J M.D., Ghyczy,M.: The use of Liposomes from Soybean Phospholipids in Cosmetics, SOFW, issue 14/88, page 531-534.

As a result of extraction, plants release the most complete complex of water and oil-soluble substances, and no chemical labs are able to reproduce their precise content. "Arboretum Natural cosmetics" largely utilizes the curative qualities of organic herbs, flowers, bark, roots, and seeds of the plant.

My favorite anti-inflammatory/ anti-bacterial plants effective in fighting acne and various skin irritations are plantain, St. John's wart, althea, dandelion, elder flower, horsetail, sage, violet, and chamomile. These herbs have healing and calming properties. For cleansing/toning the skin we use such herbs as aloe, yarrow, ginseng, leaves of bilberry, rose and orange petals, rosemary, and witch hazel. Red clover flower is a great moisturizer herb. Extract of the Green Tea is a well-known powerful anti-oxidant, recommended for mature skin (free radical scavenger), it also protects the skin from UV radiation.

Some herbs are especially good in anti-wrinkle / anti-aging preparations for tired/ mature skin : gotu cola, ginseng, and echinacea. They are reported to prolong cell life, promote cellular regeneration.

Horsetail is known to reduce swelling of eyelids, stinging nettle and hops have been used for treatment of dark circles around the eyes.

For skin brightening use extracts of such herbs as celandine, horsetail, elder flowers, parsley, or leaves of dandelion. The masks from horse chesnuts, roots of burdock and yarrow are effective fighters of red vessels on the face, strengthen dilated capillaries.

For hair growth and strengthening hair roots, use infusions of nettle, burdock roots, sage, althea roots, elder, horsetail, oak bark, St. John's wart, rose hips, and rosemary.

Among most important skin components are fat constituents. Unfortunately, over time their quantity decreases, which results in premature aging. "Arboretum " uses oils of avocado, almond, jojoba and wheat germ - these are rich in essential unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, provitamins A and D. Jojoba oil chemically is very similar to sperm whale oil( or spermaceti oil), leaves skin soft, supple and smooth and heals acne prone skin.

Hemp Seed Oil comes from a tall weed from the Cannabis sativa species, with dark green leaves which grows worldwide. It contains one of the highest levels in essential fatty acids and gamma linolenic acid :76%. These EFAs present the best ratio between omega6 and omega3 acids :3 to 1. They constitute the phospholipids necessary to build the cell membranes and a 3 to 1 ratio is required in the human body for proper cell growth. It must be also remembered that EFA deficiency leads to skin damages such as atopic eczema, psoriasis and epidermal scaling.

Sea Buckthorn Oil is made from the fruits of Sea Buchthorn trees, which are extremely rich in beta-carotinoids and have excellent emollient and wound-healing properties. Well known in Europe, its widely used in many doctor's offices to heal erosions and skin irritations and also in cosmetics. It gives our creams a light yellow color.

The solid base of our creams is a Shea Butter- a solid moisturizer of oily structure, produced by cold pressing from seeds of the African tree Karite; it is a good moisturizer and contains vitamins and allantoin giving it healing properties; it helps to protect the skin against weather and UV aggressions. Natural oils should be always cold pressed to get the added benefits of vitamins, unsaturated fats, essential fatty acids (which are not synthesized in the human body).

Hyaluronic acid (non-animal origin) is a high molecular weight molecule, which is able to hold huge amounts of water. Hyaluronic acid and other glycosaminoglycans are vital moisturizers and lubricants present in the interstitial spaces between epidermal cells. The absence of these moisturizers can accelerate the deterioration of the skin's collagen, resulting in the loss of elasticity, flexibility and tonicity. The incorporation of Hyaluronic acid into our creams replenishes the surface of the skin with its essential ingredients.

We also use natural Lactic Acid (sodium lactate), which is produced by fermentation of sugar. It is a well-known moisturizer and pH regulator; there is a renewed interest in it because it possess exfoliating, antimicrobial and skin lightening properties.

Essential oils are widely utilized in natural cosmetics not only for their pleasant scent but also for their beneficial effect on the skin. For example, such oils as tea tree, chamomile, fennel, geranium, jasmine, and lavender produce a very strong anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect (anti-acne creams). Oils of bergamot, cypress, ginger, juniperberry, and lemongrass produce a tonic effect. Many oils possess antifungal properties, such as oil of myrrh, lavender, and cedar. Many of them stimulate the generation of new cells, such as oils of thyme, eucalyptus, geranium, lavender, lemon, nerole, and palmarossa. For centuries some oils have been used to fight dandruff (i.e. oil of bergamot, cedar, sage, cade, and citrus oils). Oils of chamomile, rose, and cypress help dilated capillaries and oil of lemongrass is recommended for pore reduction

Vitamins

Our skin is constantly exposed to the influences of external and internal factors. While aging, the body protection systems are not able to resist attacks of free radicals. This deprives skin of its elasticity and results in the appearance of wrinkles. Formation of free radicals is stimulated by prolonged exposure to the sun, smoking, and stress. So called vitamins-antioxidants (C, A, and E) eliminate free radicals. The extract of grape seeds is one of the most powerful antioxidants. In fact, the most important vitamin for the skin (not produced by our body) is the vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that possesses antioxidant properties and stimulates the formation of skin collagen. Unfortunately, the ascorbic acid is very unstable in creams- it remains active for about 4 months in emulsions. It is often substituted with ascorbyl glucosaemine (vitamin C high molecular weight derivative) that keeps its biological activity for 14-18 months.

The oil-soluble form of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate, with neutral pH, easily penetrates into the skin and conserves its biological activity for 2 years. Lab tests show that this substance increases activity of vitamin E in the skin. Cream with ascorbyl palmitate tranquilizes the skin and has anti-inflammatory properties.

Among other strong antioxidants is vitamin E. It extends the life of cells by neutralizing free radicals. Vitamin A (Retinol) prevents eyelid skin from dryness and infection, normalizes dry skin, and decreases pigment spots.

Preservatives

Now about a great challenge of using preservatives in beauty products. All chemical preservatives are cellular toxins. To choose the lesser of two evils, lotions addle very quickly without preservatives, and pathogenic microorganisms can infect skin, while many preservatives may cause dermatitis and allergic reactions.

Natural cosmetics use a minimum of preservatives by applying such anti -microbial agents as Grapefruit Seed Extract, which possess powerful anti-microbial and anti -fungal qualities. Vitamin E is a good preservative for vegetable oils and phospholipids. Essential oils are natural substances that are powerful preservatives. The addition of as little as one drop of sweet orange oil to two-ounce jar of cream will kill all bacteria and fungus in it! Unfortunately, they are volatile and evaporate when left uncovered. The majority of manufactures preserve their products with parabens because they are relatively safe.

Arboretum products are organic and we recommend checking its freshness before use. After you opened a package - use it up within 3 month! For an unopened package the life span of 6-8 month is expected.We do not put a lot of preservatives into our creams and lotions to bring you the best natural skincare product!